Your Eggs-citing Monarch Adventure is about to to Begin…
If you don’t have the supplies you need, just follow along and make adjustments or use these raising tips for future monarch generations.
In case you forgot, my name is Tony Gomez and I’ll be guiding you through this 30 day transformation. If you ever have questions/comments please post them in the bottom comments section of that specific post. That way, others with the same question can benefit and other raise participants can share their experience too.
I’m starting earlier than I normally would so you’ll never have to wait or proceed into unchartered waters. Most of monarch territory still has plenty of time to raise migration monarchs.
Check out the info on the supply list about the best time to start raising for your region.
PREPARE YOUR MILKWEED
Before you can expect to receive prized monarch eggs, it’s important to prepare milkweed plants in advance for your honored guests’ arrival.
Potted Milkweed Plants
For the past few seasons, we have placed tropical and swamp milkweed containers on our raised beds, in garden carts, and other various places in hopes of attracting gravid (mated) monarch females…it works!
In fact, it worked a little too well in late summer 2012 when we got 53 eggs on just two potted milkweed plants…in one weekend!
We stopped raising monarchs on potted plants because of hidden predators and declining plant health indoors…but milkweed container plants are still a fantastic tool for attracting monarch mamas:
- Start preparing your milkweed plants 1-2 weeks before you want monarch eggs
- Water thoroughly every few days at the base of your plant(s) to keep leaves hydrated. Water more or less depending on your local precip
- Swamp Milkweed and Tropical Milkweed are two of your best options because they grow well in pots and are easy to transplant. They are also favorite egg-laying milkweeds for late season monarchs.
- Any milkweed you use should have fresh, healthy leaves. Remove sickly leaves from milkweed plants and discard.
- Cut off blooming flowers on plants you want to collect eggs from. The absence of flowers will reduce visits from nectar seeking predators.
- Check plants for predators and foreign eggs. These should be monarch-only milkweed plants for raising purposes.
- Having issues with aphids? Here are 10 Ways to Win the Milkweed War against Aphids
After milkweed prep is done, put your pot(s) out for the monarch mamas to find. I suggest putting it in a place that gets partial sun and away from other patches of milkweed.
Why Partial Sun?
Partial sun will keep leaves fresh longer, and prevent eggs/cats from getting cooked by the summer sun.
Why Away from the Main Patch?
There tends to be a higher concentration of milkweed predators inside a patch. Lone milkweed plants usually get less attention from pesky monarch-munching predators.
Keep an eye on your plants while you’re waiting for eggs. If you find ants, stink bugs, spiders, tussock moth caterpillars, or foreign eggs remove them. These should remain monarch-only milkweed plants while waiting for eggs.
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS WITH RAISING ON POTTED MILKWEED
- Predators and pests can be hiding in the plant or on the container
- Heavy containers can accidentally wound or kill monarchs
- Soil can become moldy, collect frass (poop), or have disease spores
- Difficult to effectively clean/rinse an entire plant
- Plants put out/maintain healthier growth outdoors
POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO POTTED MILKWEED PROBLEMS
- Leave potted milkweed outside
- Collect stem cuttings with eggs off potted milkweed to bring inside
- Collect individual leaves with eggs off potted milkweed to bring in
- If raising on container plants, check for predators multiple times
Stem cuttings are, in my opinion, the best way to raise healthy monarchs because the milkweed stays fresh longer and cuttings keep the caterpillars from crawling around in potentially disease-causing frass. (poop)
Since these will come from your garden plants (or another outdoor area) make sure your milkweed looks healthy and isn’t being overrun by predators or pests. Otherwise, you’re unlikely to collect a monarch deposit.
The easiest way to have ‘clean’ milkweed is by diversifying your milkweed species and having several patches around your yard and garden. Predators and pests won’t be able to find them all!
Milkweed Cuttings can range in size from 1 leaf to 2 foot stalks, and what you use will depend on the height of your cage and cutting containers.
During spring months, I use Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed) cuttings.
In the summer and fall months, I switch to Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed), Asclepias curassavica (tropical milkweed), Gomphocarpus physocarpus (balloon plant), & Gomphocarpus fruticosus (swan plant).
Note: I realize many of these options aren’t native, but most native milkweed looks pretty scraggly by season’s end. Tropical milkweed and balloon plant are our last milkweed plants with viable leaves for the caterpillars and the late summer favorites for egg laying.
As long as the milkweed is healthy, any variety can be used to feed your caterpillars.
WHAT IF THE ELFS (EGG LAYING FEMALES) DON’T COOPERATE?
Unfortunately, the decline in the monarch population means monarchs are no longer a sure thing in North American butterfly gardens. I still believe that if you put the time into improving your butterfly garden, they will eventually come…but that doesn’t mean a predator won’t find the eggs/caterpillars before you do.
BUYING EGGS AND CATERPILLARS
For those of you who want to insure you’ll be raising monarchs, there are a few options for buying monarchs. These options are only good for those who live east of the Continental divide. These vendors aren’t allowed to ship further west due to USDA regulations. Monarch egg/caterpillar vendors are on the supply list.
And now comes the hard part: waiting for your monarch eggs to arrive by air…or airmail!
Please Read the Comments Section below for more info about Preparing Milkweed Plants for Monarchs.